The Ornament in a Felt Decorative System: the Style of Kalmyk Applied Arts Revisited

Abstract

The article analyzes decorative elements of nomadic household utensils, i.e., felting ornamental patterns of the Kalmyks. Identification of ethnic features manifested in quilted felting ornaments results in exploration of ancient beginnings of felting arts. Being the most archaic layer of ornaments, the linear geometrical felting decorative patterns constitute a distinctive artistic tradition of Kalmyk applied arts. In terms of traditions the nomadic worldview embraces the structure of ornamented felts created with the aid of figured stitch means. In this perspective, the folk ornamental patterns are of fundamental importance for constructing ornamental compositions of felt mats. The ornament as a concentrate of applied arts synthesizes historical twists and turns in the fate of the nation that gave rise to graphic expressiveness of quilted (stitched) ornamental felting patterns and the polychromic structure of the ‘zeg’ embroidery pattern. The technique of stitched ornaments accompanied by embroidery and applique methods stems from ancient felting traditions. This is illustrated by archeological materials from Noin Ula moumds (Northern Mongolia) that give insight into nomadic economic activities, their beliefs, obsequies, visual arts, and felting ornamental techniques. The archaic decorative patterns manifest the conception memory of ancestors and form the stylistic peculiarity of Kalmyk applied arts.